If they are, then replace the 50 amp with something larger. I think you will be happier doing your own system, and, as you say, the wiring is really pretty simple. Be aware that upon failure, these batteries are able to leak flammable gasses into the air. So if you need to site the battery inside the van due to lack of space in the engine compartment, you'll need to create a boxed in area keeping the battery isolated from pretty much everything else. I want to make it very clear that I am not an electrician, and I take no responsibility whatever for the correctness of the material below — you need to do your own homework! However, on modern vans this is more complicated than it used to be, and there are now much better solutions available.
Chances are you do not have the proper wire already available at home. Connect one end of the romex and install the inlet per the instructions on the package. Since I didn't want to have the dome light and brake light on the same ground, I made this on the end of one of the 2-foot wires I cut. Hi Steve, This link is not to the same brand I used, but similar: Also got some of them at the local auto parts store. Gary, We just returned from our first longer trip, seven days in Eastern Oregon. Seems like this might make a nice solution for someone who wants a very simple, all in one box electrical system for a conversion.
If you used the largest battery it takes 130 amp-hrs , and you discharge the batter to 20%, then you have about 100 amp-hrs available. Of course you do still need a way of re-charging the leisure battery, so the ideal arrangement involves a system where your van's alternator charges both batteries while you're driving, but only your leisure battery is drawn on whenever the engine isn't running. Thanks so much for this material! Firstly, how does battery charging work - well, essentially your van's alternator charges your starter battery whenever you're driving, and you want to hook your leisure battery up so that it gets charged as well. Do you think a yeti system would be sufficient for our needs? Motors such as those in fan heaters need a starting surge of nearly twice their usual current, while fluorescent lights use four or five times their usual current rating. People get around this situation using a polarity reverser connection. The page on for your needs might also be useful.
An isolator directs power generated by the alternator to the chassis battery until it is fully charged, then redirects the power to the coach battery, and prevents the coach system from draining the chassis battery when the engine is switched off. The manufacturer would not commit either way. Each switch in the control panel has its own fuse, ranging from 10-15 amps. Before adjusting mine it took about 2 minutes to turn off. Would that give me good results, or should I consider another approach? However, if someone walked up and touched the vehicle, or if you stepped out of the vehicle while touching the car, you would be shocked. Any detail you can provide or resources you can point me to would be greatly appreciated.
Time to make a hole where the wires will come out. Blogactiv is een vraag of the destructive to meet these types come with his botfly shines a relationship, but rather, divorces, freaking charts. Description Mains installation kit for fitting a 240V hook-up system to caravans, motorhomes, campervans and boats. The 110-volt system is designed to power the air conditioning and other high-drain appliances such as televisions or microwave ovens. Tuesday, 12 April 2016 Anwar Good product,east to fit but the only problem I have encountered is that when it rains water gathers in the external mains hook-up cover wetting all the pins in the plug,this could have been very dangerous had I not noticed and dried out the plug and pins prior to hooking up to the mains power. A distribution panel of some type will be required to mount the fuses. See pic 3 · Number S approx is fine drill bit size.
In this system, the Inverter and the Charger are combined into one unit. Hi, Your site is very helpful thank you. This is connected to the input socket using 2. Should the earth wire from chassis go to earth or neutral black in back of new socket? The Isolator disconnects the house battery from the van battery except when the engine is running — this keeps you from accidentally discharging the van battery to the point where it cannot start the van. Agree that pure sine wave is the way to go these days. The fuses should be as close to their respective batteries as possible — fuses such as the allow the fuse to be connected directly to the battery terminal or bus. This will keep your inverter from tripping out.
I bought the wire at Lowes — they charge a lot per foot, but they will sell you exactly what you need cut off a large coil. Can you help me out with a suggestion or two? You make some very important points that everyone should consider when building their own van our battery compartment is vented to the outside. The size of the battery is also important so if you will be using 12 volt electricity a lot then a larger capacity battery is essential. You can see the mounting tab on the top right corner of the box in this picture:. Split charging relay Smartcom Voltage sensing The traditional method for split charging is to take a wire from the ignition to energise a relay when the engine is running.
It can be charged from three sources: 1 the van alternator, 2 the solar panel on the roof, and 3 the charger that operates from shore power. I read a few threads on here and watched some youtube videos which all gave me a lot of help figuring out what to do. If you own a truck camper from another manufacturer the 6-pin receptacle will probably look a lot different than the 6-pin rectangular receptacle used by Northwood Manufacturing. Any thoughts on it or any others I might want to look at? Purchase a sealed battery box and then run a vent to the outside of the van. We used an 8mm diameter cable to prevent any voltage drop between the battery and fridge and it seemed to do the trick; even with a 4. You may also need access for fault finding in the future so make sure all components are accessible.
If you have any more detailed questions, please leave a comment at the bottom of this post! I think maybe the colour of wire is wrong. Site Polarity On continental sites reversed polarity occurs where the electricity supply enters your campervan via the neutral instead of the live wire. I was only able to expose about 4 inches of each of the three wires which turned out to be enough. This would also make the dome light work whether the running lights are on or not, although this runs the risk of draining the battery if the light is left on accidentally. I once saw a 14 wire blow a 200 amp breaker when I was changing out our circuit breaker panel on our house. Leisure batteries on the other hand are designed to function well when you run them down time after time - this is why they are called 'deep-cycle'.
Hi Paul, Two things to think about. I guess one thing to keep in mind is that the main thing the breakers are there to do is to protect the wiring, so be sure to set the breaker size that is no larger than the max current carring capacity of the wire. Two systems are described: 1 a simple, small self-contained systems for minimalist camping, and 2 our system, which has more functions and more capacity, but still very buildible. Very impressed that you can charge the battery from the charger and from the engine battery. It is in the under bed cabinet, so it has a few cubic feet of air space, but no vents.