In a way, it all starts with the size of the wire. It's nice to be plugged in for bright lights and other minor uses of power. I want the maximum protection that I can get. Being quiet seems to be an expensive option. When too many amps flow through a circuit, the wires overheat and can catch surrounding materials like insulation on fire. Consider a swamp cooler if you planned for this. This in itself may well be enough to 'blow' a breaker.
With hopes that the wiring in the campground was at least done correctly as far as polarity goes, the electrical service may still be weak. With the inverter it is a good idea to get with your dealer and make sure that you have enough battery power for such a setup. Household circuits don't operate like that, you have a consistent average of 120 volt at each receptacle, no matter how many loads you have on the circuit. That is most likely a problem of usage on that particular circuit. I was always told it was a maximum of 6, but in practice there doesn't seem to be a limit. But plenty of other things will be happening.
Methinks someone on board could answer that one. You should never just upgrade from a 15-amp breaker to a 20-amp one just because the current one is tripping. While you may not exceed the amperage, you will be violating code, and if it does mess up, you'll burn the wire before the breaker trips. I rewired one of my rental houses. I do see down the road restrictions on the number of outlets on a circuit as the use of more and more electronics come into play.
Also, you want to use the shortest adapter and extension cords possible to avoid a voltage drop. It's all about power management. This type of unit is excellent protection for your unit. Code says you can have a 15A receptacle as long as there is more than one on the circuit, because they are assuming that if you have more than one 15A receptacle you will have the current draw distributed to be under each receptacles individual rating. A permanently mounted generator in your motorhome or camper will 'transmit' noise throughout the unit if not properly mounted. This may be easier than it looks if you use the circuit diagrams that the manufacturer provides. Code allows it, but some need to have their own understanding of a concept before they buy off on it.
And if more than 15 amps flows through the circuit, the breaker trips. He also seems to think my basement is a death trap with the way the electrician took shortcuts to try and resolve my problems there. Check to make sure that all of the connection points are secure, nothing looks damaged or frayed, and everything is clean with no signs of corrosion. If two parts of an intended circuit each go out from the panel, their black wires can be to the breaker. But, in the real world: - most electrical components are designed to handle roughly double their rating. The fact that you are permitted to have 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit with a 20A breaker is because the current draw from from the appliance plugged into that recepticle will draw no more than 15A. Just because the breaker and wire are rated at 20A does not mean that much is being pushed.
If you're just running in a 20 amp cord to power the basics no air, etc. Considerations must be given to things such as the starting power requirements for an air conditioner, microwave and other electronic gear. With a little understanding, most of us can accomplish the installation, without many surprises. So on a typical kitchen counter 20A circuit with say 4 receptacle outlets, you would have to use 15A rated receptacles. Upgrading the main panel will not change that. As a starter you can use the below items as a guide for your generator requirements list.
You may even have to check with electrical codes to see if you can sell the house as-is later on. Discount stores also carry this type of cord. This will deliver 15 to 20 amps. We know that we can't run both of our air conditioners and our electric water heater element and our microwave all at the same time unless we're on 50-amp service. This includes lots of electrical appliances and devices.
Wiring Diagram for a 30-Amp Dryer Outlet This is a newer version of the outdated 30 amp receptacle appearing in the previous diagram. Make a list of what each circuit provides power to. We also carry a second dogbone to further step down to 20-amp service. If only 1 outlet existed for a fixed appliance say a disposal or dishwasher, then use a dedicated 20A circuit with the 20A receptacle. After all, that is how my system is set up.
Therefore it will be safe to use. Logically and fundamentally, you should have 20A receptacles with your 20A circuits. When replacing an ungrounded, polarized receptacle use this type and not the grounded type previously mentioned unless it is grounded by a jumper wire to a metal outlet box that is tied to the house service panel ground through a continuos metal conduit. If an interruption occurs in a switch, there will be no electricity beyond that point. If the house is old and the outlets have no ground.